Ford F-150 Brake Upgrades for Towing

By Core Brake Parts Tech Team — Circleville, OH warehouse

The brake upgrade that makes the biggest difference on an F-150 that tows is not one part. It is a severe-duty pad and rotor set matched to the weight you pull, fresh brake fluid, a properly set trailer brake controller, and driving habits that keep heat out of the system. Get those four right and the truck stops straighter, fades less on long grades, and wears its brakes more evenly.

This guide explains why towing is hard on F-150 brakes, what to look for when you upgrade, what to replace at the same time, and a recall every 2017-2018 3.5L EcoBoost owner should check before hooking up a trailer.

Why Towing Punishes F-150 Brakes

Brakes stop a truck by turning its motion into heat. Add a loaded trailer and the brakes have far more energy to absorb every time you slow down. Delphi's brake engineering guidance points out that kinetic energy rises with the square of speed, so a stop from highway speed with a trailer attached produces much more heat than the same stop at town speeds with an empty bed.

When that heat builds faster than the rotors can shed it, you get brake fade. There are two main kinds, and they feel different from the driver's seat:

• Pad (friction) fade - the pad runs past its working temperature range and the resins in the compound out-gas, creating a thin layer of gas between pad and rotor. The truck does not slow the way it should, and you may smell hot brakes.
• Fluid fade (vapor lock) - the brake fluid gets hot enough to boil. Because brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture over time, older fluid boils sooner. Vapor bubbles compress, so the pedal goes soft and travels further toward the floor.

Long downhill grades are where towing rigs get into trouble. Riding the brakes down a mountain pass never gives the pads and rotors a chance to cool. An upgrade raises the ceiling on how much heat the system can take, but it does not remove that ceiling.

Symptoms Your F-150 Brakes Are Not Keeping Up

If you tow regularly, watch for these signs. Any of them is a reason to inspect the brakes before the next trip:

• Stopping distance grows as a long descent goes on, even though you are pressing harder (pad fade).
• The pedal feels soft or spongy, or sinks further than usual after heavy use (fluid near its boiling point, or air in the lines).
• A burning smell from the wheels after a grade or a hard stop.
• Vibration or pulsation in the pedal or steering wheel when braking from speed, which often shows up after rotors have been overheated repeatedly.
• The truck pulls to one side under braking, which can point to a sticking caliper slide pin or uneven pad wear.
• A red brake warning light or a low-fluid message in the cluster. Treat this as a stop-driving warning, not a maintenance reminder.

Pay special attention to the last one on a 2017-2018 truck. See the recall section below.

Choosing Towing Pads and Rotors for an F-150

A standard replacement pad is built for quiet everyday driving. A towing pad is built to hold its friction level at higher temperatures. Two widely used severe-duty options show what to look for:

A few rules apply no matter which brand you pick:

• Match the part to your exact truck. F-150 brake parts change between generations, and rear brake parts can differ depending on whether the truck has a manual or electric parking brake. Check fitment by year, drive type and parking brake type before you order.
• Replace pads and rotors as an axle set. Both front wheels or both rear wheels at once, so the truck brakes evenly side to side.
• Do the front axle first if budget is tight. The front brakes carry most of the stopping load, and that is where towing heat shows up first.
• Use iron rotors with these compounds. Hawk notes its pads are designed for iron or metal rotors, not carbon ceramic rotors.

You can browse Power Stop truck and tow brake kits, compare severe-duty brake pads, or shop replacement brake rotors for your F-150.

What to Replace at the Same Time

A pad and rotor upgrade only performs as well as the parts around it. When the wheels are off, look at these:

Brake fluid

Fresh fluid has a higher boiling point than old, moisture-laden fluid, which directly fights vapor lock on long grades. Brembo recommends changing brake fluid every two years or at the interval the vehicle manufacturer specifies. Use the fluid type printed on your F-150's master cylinder cap or listed in the owner's manual. A full flush after a brake upgrade is cheap insurance for a truck that tows.

Hardware and slide pins

Worn abutment clips and dry or seized slide pins cause dragging, uneven pad wear and pulling. Fresh brake hardware kits keep new pads moving freely. The Power Stop Z36 kits already include stainless hardware and a new pin bushing kit.

Calipers and hoses

A caliper that has been cooked on a lot of tows can start to stick. If one side runs noticeably hotter or wears its pads faster, replace the brake calipers in pairs. Inspect rubber hoses for cracks and bulging; brake lines and hoses are worth replacing on a high-mileage tow rig.

Set Up the Trailer Brakes, Too

The best truck brakes in the world should not be stopping a heavy trailer by themselves. Trailer brakes carry their share of the load, which keeps the truck's pads and rotors cooler and helps keep the rig straight.

Many F-150s have Ford's integrated trailer brake controller in the dash, with a manual lever and plus and minus buttons that adjust gain (how much braking power goes to the trailer). Ford also sells the module as an add-on for some trucks. Ford's 2015 F-150 installation instructions note that the instrument cluster must be programmed with a scan tool so it recognizes the truck is equipped, and that the message center shows TBC FAULT when the module is present but not configured. Ford's instructions also say to verify stop, turn signal, electric brake and running light function before towing, and not to drive with the trailer if those functions do not work.

To set gain, a Ford dealer's F-150 guide recommends a flat stretch of road with little traffic, at around 20 mph:

1. Squeeze the manual trailer brake lever fully.
2. If the trailer wheels lock up, lower the gain.
3. If the trailer brakes feel weak or sluggish, raise the gain.
4. Repeat until the trailer brakes firmly without locking.

Readjust whenever the trailer load, the trailer, or the road conditions change.

Check This Recall: 2017-2018 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Master Cylinder

In April 2025 Ford filed NHTSA safety recall 25V-236 (Ford recall 25S37) covering 2017-2018 F-150, Expedition and Lincoln Navigator models with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine built between February 1 and June 30, 2017. According to the filing, the brake master cylinder may leak fluid from its front wheel circuit into the brake booster. A substantial fluid loss can reduce front brake function and lengthen stopping distance.

The warning signs listed in the report are an audible chime, a message center alert and a red brake warning light when reservoir fluid drops to a set level, followed by changes in pedal travel and feel and higher pedal effort if you keep driving. The remedy is a new master cylinder at no charge, plus a new brake booster if the master cylinder was leaking. The vehicles were not built in VIN order, so contact Ford or a dealer to see whether your truck is included.

This matters for towing: a truck with a leaking master cylinder is the last thing you want behind a heavy trailer. Check for open recalls before you spend money on upgrades. If your truck is outside the recall and you find a leaking unit, we carry brake master cylinders and brake boosters.

Installation Difficulty and Break-In

A pad and rotor swap on an F-150 is a moderate driveway job for someone with a floor jack, jack stands, a torque wrench and basic hand tools. Power Stop describes its F-150 truck and tow kits as bolting on in place of the factory rotors and pads. Torque the caliper bracket bolts and lug nuts to the values in the factory service manual. On trucks with an electric parking brake, follow the factory service procedure to release the rear calipers before you try to retract the pistons.

Do not skip the break-in. New pads need to lay an even film on the rotors. Power Stop's procedure for the Z36 kit is:

1. Five moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph, back to back, without letting the brakes cool.
2. Five moderate stops from 35 mph down to 5 mph.
3. Let the brakes cool for 5 minutes before normal driving.

Delphi notes that bedding in new pads also prevents early-life fade, where fresh pads out-gas the first time they get hot. Do the break-in before your first tow, not on the way to the boat ramp.

Driving Habits That Protect Your Brakes

• Shift to a lower gear on long descents and let engine braking hold your speed. Both Delphi and Brembo recommend engine braking on downhill stretches.
• Brake firmly and then release to let the brakes cool, instead of riding the pedal the whole way down.
• Leave more following distance so you can slow gradually.
• Stay within the truck's rated towing and payload limits on the door sticker and in the owner's manual.
• If the pedal goes soft or the truck stops slowing, pull over safely and let the brakes cool before going on.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do drilled and slotted rotors help an F-150 that tows?

They are designed to help shed heat. Power Stop describes the drilled holes on its Z36 rotors as a cooling feature. The pad compound and fresh fluid matter just as much, so pair the rotors with a severe-duty pad and a fluid flush.

Should I upgrade front brakes, rear brakes, or both?

If you tow regularly, do both axles so braking stays balanced. If you have to pick one, start with the front, which does most of the stopping and heats up first.

Why does my brake pedal go soft after a long downhill with a trailer?

That usually means the brake fluid is near its boiling point and has formed vapor bubbles. Pull over and let the brakes cool. Old fluid that has absorbed moisture boils sooner, so a fluid flush is a good first fix.

Can I tow on pads that are worn but still above the minimum?

Thinner pads hold less heat and fade sooner. If you have a big trip coming up and the pads are getting low, replace them first and complete the break-in before you tow.

Is my 2017 F-150 part of the master cylinder recall?

Recall 25V-236 covers certain 2017-2018 F-150s with the 3.5L EcoBoost built from February 1 to June 30, 2017. The trucks were not built in VIN order, so check with Ford or a dealer using your VIN.

Do I still need trailer brakes if I upgrade my truck brakes?

Yes. Upgraded truck brakes do not replace trailer brakes. Set the trailer brake controller gain so the trailer does its share of the work.

Sources

1. Power Stop - Z36 Truck and Tow Brake Upgrade Kit - carbon-fiber ceramic pads, drilled and slotted zinc-plated rotors, hardware, break-in procedure
2. Power Stop - F-150 Z36 Truck and Tow Brake Kit Install - kit bolts on in place of factory rotors and pads
3. Hawk Performance - LTS - Ferro-Carbon compound, 100-700 F range, 20-40 percent stopping power claim, iron rotor compatibility
4. NHTSA - Part 573 Safety Recall Report 25V-236 - 2017-2018 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost master cylinder leak, warnings and remedy
5. Ford - 2015 F-150 Trailer Brake Control Module Installation - cluster programming, TBC FAULT message, pre-tow function checks
6. Boyd Brothers Ford - How to Set Trailer Brake Gain on an F-150 - gain setting procedure at around 20 mph
7. Brembo - Brake Fading and Vapour Lock Compared - fade vs vapor lock symptoms, hygroscopic fluid, two-year fluid change guidance
8. Delphi Technologies - What Is Brake Fade - types of fade, energy rising with the square of speed, engine braking when towing, bedding in