2011-2014 Ford Edge Parking Brake Problems and Adjustment

By Core Brake Parts Tech Team — Circleville, OH warehouse

The 2011-2014 Ford Edge uses a foot-pedal parking brake that works a small set of brake shoes hidden inside the hat of each rear rotor, a design called drum-in-hat. Most complaints on this generation - a pedal that goes nearly to the floor, an Edge that creeps on a hill with the brake set, or a rear rotor that will not come off - trace back to worn or rusted shoes, a seized adjuster, or a stretched cable. The fix is almost always to adjust the shoes first, then the cable, in that order.

How the Parking Brake Works on the 2011-2014 Edge

Your service brakes at the rear are ordinary disc brakes: a caliper squeezes pads against the outer faces of the rotor. The parking brake is a separate, purely mechanical system. Behind each rear rotor sits a pair of small shoes. The center section of the rotor - the hat - is machined on the inside to act as a small drum, and when you press the parking brake pedal, a cable pulls a lever that spreads those shoes against that inner drum surface.

Ford's 2013 Edge owner's manual describes the control simply: press the parking brake pedal down to its fullest extent to set it, and press it down again to release it. The same manual warns you to always set the parking brake fully and make sure the shifter is latched in Park, because failing to do both can lead to a roll-away.

The cable system has two adjustment points: at the parking brake control (the pedal assembly) and at the cable equalizer under the vehicle, and tension is meant to be set evenly at both. Inside each rear brake, a star-wheel adjuster sets how far the shoes rest from the drum surface.

Common Parking Brake Problems and Their Symptoms

Pedal travels too far or does not hold on a grade

This is the classic complaint. Because an automatic Edge rarely needs its parking brake on flat ground, the shoes can sit unused for years. The adjuster never gets exercised, the lining glazes, and the cables slowly stretch. Brake & Front End notes that parking brake cables stretch over time, and that slack shows up as extra pedal or lever travel. Tightening the cable alone to take up that travel is the wrong move if the shoes themselves are out of adjustment - you end up with a cable pulled to its limit and shoes that still barely touch the drum.

Brake warning light or "Park Brake Engaged" message

The 2013 owner's manual says the brake system warning light comes on when the parking brake is applied with the ignition on. If it stays lit while you drive and the parking brake is released, the manual says that points to low brake fluid or a brake system malfunction and should be checked immediately. The message center also shows "Park Brake Engaged" if the brake is set and the vehicle is driven faster than 3 mph. If that message persists after the pedal is released, suspect a sticking pedal release, a binding cable, or the pedal switch before you suspect the shoes.

Dragging, heat or a burning smell at one rear wheel

A cable seized in its sheath or a shoe adjusted too tight keeps the shoes rubbing on the drum after the pedal is released. You will feel heat at that wheel after a drive and may see uneven rear pad and rotor wear. The owner's manual is blunt about the consequence: driving extended distances with the parking brake engaged can cause brake failure.

Rear rotor will not come off during a brake job

This is the problem most do-it-yourselfers hit first. According to Brake & Front End, when the parking brake is not used, rust and corrosion build up inside the drum, and the drum-in-hat rotor sticks to the parking brake shoes.

How to Adjust the Parking Brake the Right Way

Adjust the shoes first, then the cable. Brake & Front End is clear that on drum-type parking brakes the shoe-to-drum clearance comes first, followed by cable adjustment at the equalizer or pedal - and that you should never estimate. Follow the factory service procedure for the exact clearance and back-off steps.

1. Chock the front wheels, release the parking brake, and raise and support the rear on jack stands. Remove the rear wheels.
2. Find the adjuster access. Remove the rubber plug over the access hole. Depending on the part, the hole may be in the rotor hat or on the back side. With the rotor removed, the star wheel is easy to see and reach.
3. Turn the star wheel with a brake spoon or flat screwdriver while spinning the rotor by hand. If drag decreases, you are going the wrong way. Spread the shoes until they just begin to drag, then back off to the clearance given in the service manual. The adjusters on the left and right sides turn in opposite directions, so confirm your direction on each side with the spin test.
4. Set cable tension at the pedal control and the equalizer so both rear wheels are pulled evenly. The rear wheels should spin freely with the pedal released.
5. Test. Set the brake on a gentle incline with the engine off and the transmission in Park, and confirm the Edge holds. Then release it and confirm the warning light and message clear.

If the star wheel will not turn, it is seized. Brake & Front End points out that once adjusters seize, they can no longer compensate for wear. That means the brake has to come apart - adjustment alone will not fix it.

Removing a Stuck Rear Rotor

If the rear rotor is trapped by the shoes, do not pry on it or hammer the braking surface. The procedure Brake & Front End describes is: remove the access plug, turn the adjuster a few clicks to retract the shoes, spin the rotor to confirm drag is decreasing, and keep backing off until the rotor releases. A few light taps on the hat can then free it. Once it is off, inspect the shoe linings and hardware before you reassemble anything.

If the shoe lining is thin, cracked, glazed or soaked with grease or brake fluid, replace both sides as a set along with the springs and adjuster hardware. See our brake hardware kits and brake shoes. Clean the rust from the inside of the hat or, if the drum surface is badly scored, replace the rotor.

What to Replace at the Same Time

Because the parking brake drum is part of the rear rotor, any time you replace rear rotors you are also replacing the parking brake drum surface - and that is the right time to set the shoes. A fresh rotor paired with unadjusted or glazed shoes is a common reason a new rear brake job still leaves a weak parking brake.

• Rear rotors: for the 2011-2014 Edge 2.0L Turbo, the EBC USR slotted rear rotor pair replaces both drum-in-hat rotors.
• Rear pads: pair new rotors with fresh pads such as the EBC Yellowstuff rear pads for the Edge 2.0L Turbo.
• Front pads: if the fronts are also due, the EBC Redstuff ceramic front pad set fits the same 2.0L Turbo models.
• Brake fluid: the owner's manual specifies Motorcraft High Performance DOT 3 fluid meeting WSS-M6C62-A or WSS-M6C65-A1. If you opened the hydraulic system while replacing calipers or hoses, bleed with fluid that meets that spec.

The EBC parts above are listed for the 2.0L Turbo. For V6 models, shop our brake rotors and brake pads and confirm fitment before ordering.

How Hard Is This Job?

A parking brake adjustment on the Edge is a moderate driveway job if the adjuster turns freely: basic hand tools, jack stands, a brake spoon and some patience. It gets harder when the rotors are rusted to the shoes or the adjuster is seized, because the brake has to be disassembled and the springs on drum-in-hat shoes are small and fiddly. Cable replacement adds work under the vehicle. If you are not comfortable working on the brake system, have a shop do it - a parking brake that does not hold is a roll-away risk.

One related safety note: NHTSA recall 14V393000 (Ford 14S10) covered certain 2012-2014 Edge models for a halfshaft retention circlip that may not have been installed properly. NHTSA notes that if the halfshaft disengages and the vehicle is parked without the parking brake applied, it can roll away even in Park. Check your VIN on nhtsa.gov, and make a habit of setting the parking brake every time you park.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the 2011-2014 Ford Edge have an electronic parking brake?

No. It uses a foot-operated pedal: press it down fully to set the brake and press it again to release it. The pedal pulls cables to drum-in-hat shoes at the rear wheels.

Why does my Edge parking brake pedal go almost to the floor?

Usually because the shoes inside the rear rotors are worn or out of adjustment, or the cables have stretched. Adjust the shoes at the star wheel first, then take up any remaining slack at the cable.

Can I just tighten the cable to fix a weak parking brake?

Not as a first step. If the shoes sit far from the drum, tightening the cable uses up its adjustment range without fixing the real problem. Set shoe clearance first, then cable tension.

Why won't my rear rotor come off?

Rust builds up inside the drum section of the rotor hat and traps the parking brake shoes. Remove the access plug and back the adjuster off a few clicks until the rotor turns freely and slides off.

Do I need new parking brake shoes when I replace rear rotors?

Not always, but inspect them every time. Replace them if the lining is thin, glazed, cracked or contaminated, and always readjust the shoes to the new rotor's drum surface.

Is it OK to never use the parking brake on an automatic?

Ford says to set it fully every time along with Park. Regular use also helps keep the shoes and adjuster from rusting in place.

Sources

1. Ford 2013 Edge Owner's Manual - pedal operation, roll-away warning, warning light and Park Brake Engaged message, DOT 3 fluid spec
2. NHTSA recalls for the 2013 Ford Edge - recall 14V393000 halfshaft circlip and roll-away risk
3. Brake & Front End: Adjusting Parking Brakes - shoes before cable, cable stretch, never estimate clearance
4. Brake & Front End: Removing a Rear Rotor Stuck on the Parking Brake - rust in the drum, backing off the adjuster
5. Rick's Free Auto Repair Advice: Replace Brakes Ford Edge - Edge shoe-in-hat design and control and equalizer cable adjustment points