2002-2004 Infiniti I35 Brake Job Guide: Symptoms, Costs and the Right Parts

By Core Brake Parts Tech Team — Circleville, OH warehouse

A brake job on a 2002-2004 Infiniti I35 means pads and usually rotors at all four corners, because this sedan runs disc brakes front and rear, with no rear drums. The front axle does most of the work and wears out first; the rear is a different job because the parking brake mechanism is built into the rear calipers. Here is what wears, how to tell it is due, and which parts to buy together.

How the I35 Brake System Is Laid Out

The I35 is a front-wheel-drive luxury sedan powered by a 3.5-liter V6 rated at 260 hp and paired with a four-speed automatic. Every I35 has four-wheel disc brakes with four-wheel ABS. For 2002 Infiniti added Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD), which adjusts brake force to passenger and cargo load, and Brake Assist, which reduces pedal effort in a panic stop, along with a Traction Control System and a Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) stability system.

That matters for a brake job in two ways. First, EBD and ABS rely on wheel-speed sensors at each wheel, so those sensor wires need to be kept clear and undamaged when you pull calipers and rotors. Second, the dealer parts catalog for the rear brake lists a parking brake lever and adjusting cams on the rear caliper itself, which means the parking brake is integrated into the rear caliper rather than using separate shoes inside the rotor hat.

Symptoms That Your I35 Is Due for Brakes

• High-pitched squeal while driving that changes or stops when you brake. On many pads this is the metal wear tab touching the rotor, a built-in warning that the friction material is almost gone.
• Grinding or growling. The pad backing plate is contacting the rotor. Stop driving on it: every mile now scores the rotor and can damage the caliper piston.
• Pulsation in the pedal or a shimmy in the steering wheel when stopping from highway speed. This points to uneven rotor thickness or pad deposits, most often on the front rotors of a heavy V6 sedan like this one.
• Car pulls to one side under braking. Often a sticking caliper slide pin or a seized piston on one side, not just worn pads.
• Parking brake lever travels farther than it used to, or the car creeps on a slope. On the I35 this points toward the rear calipers and their parking brake adjustment, or a stretched cable.
• ABS or slip light on after brake work. Usually a wheel-speed sensor wire that was pulled or pinched during the job.

The most reliable check is visual: pull a wheel and look at the pad thickness through the caliper window, then look at the rotor face for deep grooves, a raised lip at the outer edge, or blue heat spots.

Front vs Rear: Two Different Jobs

Front axle

The front brakes carry most of the stopping load on a front-heavy, front-wheel-drive car, so front pads wear faster than rears and are usually the first job on an I35. The front caliper is a floating design that rides on slide pins. The dealer catalog lists a separate front pad hardware kit, a caliper seal kit, and the slide pins and bolts, which tells you what the factory treats as service items: pads, their clips and shims, and the pins and boots.

A standard front job is: remove the caliper, replace the pads and the abutment clips, clean and grease the slide pins with a high-temperature brake lubricant, replace or resurface the rotors, push the piston back, and reassemble to the torque values in the factory service manual.

Rear axle

The rear pads wear more slowly, but the job takes more care. Because the parking brake mechanism lives in the rear caliper, the rear piston on this type of caliper generally cannot simply be pushed straight back with a C-clamp the way a front piston can. It typically has to be rotated back in with a caliper wind-back tool while applying light pressure. Forcing it straight in can damage the internal parking brake adjuster. Follow the retraction procedure in the service manual for your exact car.

After a rear job, pump the brake pedal until it is firm, cycle the parking brake several times, and confirm it holds the car before driving. If the lever travel is still long, the cable adjustment or the caliper's internal adjuster needs attention.

What to Replace at the Same Time

A lasting brake job on a car that is now more than 20 years old is rarely pads alone. Plan on these together:

• Pads and rotors as a set, per axle. Always replace both sides of an axle together so the car stops straight. New pads on old, worn rotors bed in poorly and often cause noise or pulsation. Matched brake pads for your I35 and replacement brake rotors are the core of the job.
• Pad hardware. Abutment clips lose their spring over time and let pads rattle or drag. A fresh brake hardware kit is inexpensive and prevents most post-job noise complaints.
• Calipers, if any are sticking. Torn piston boots, rust on the piston, a seized slide pin, or one pad worn much more than the other on the same wheel are signs a caliper is done. On the rear, a caliper whose parking brake adjuster no longer self-adjusts is also due. New and remanufactured brake calipers are the usual fix.
• Brake hoses. Check the flexible hoses for cracks, bulges or a soft, swollen feel. Original hoses on a car this age deserve a close look; see our brake hoses.
• Brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over the years. When the calipers are open anyway, flush the system with the fluid type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap and in your owner's manual.

Pad choice matters too. Ceramic pads are the common pick for a luxury sedan like the I35 because they run quietly and keep wheels cleaner. Power Stop, for example, describes its Z17 stock-replacement pads as a true ceramic formula sold with application-specific hardware, and its Z23 carbon-fiber ceramic pads as a step up for drivers who want more fade resistance without giving up daily drivability. Browse ceramic brake pads or complete Power Stop brake kits.

What Drives the Cost

We will not quote a single number, because the price of an I35 brake job moves a lot with a few choices:

• Pads only vs pads and rotors. Rotors are the bigger parts cost. If they are below minimum thickness, warped or deeply grooved, they must be replaced, and machining old rotors is often not worth it on a car this age.
• One axle vs both. Most I35s need fronts first. Doing all four corners at once costs more up front but saves a second visit.
• Calipers. Adding a seized caliper, especially a rear caliper with the built-in parking brake, raises both parts cost and labor, and means bleeding the system.
• Labor vs do-it-yourself. Labor is a large share of a shop bill. The front job is well within reach of a home mechanic with basic tools; the rear job adds the wind-back tool and a parking brake check.
• Pad and rotor grade. Standard ceramic pads with plain rotors cost less than coated or drilled-and-slotted rotors with performance pads. For a daily-driven I35, quality stock-style parts are usually the right call.

How Hard Is the Job?

The front brake job on the I35 is a beginner-to-intermediate task: jack stands, a socket set, a torque wrench, a C-clamp or piston press, and brake cleaner. Rotors on older cars can be rusted to the hub, so penetrating oil and a rubber mallet help. The rear job is intermediate because of the rotating piston and the parking brake adjustment. Budget extra time if you are also replacing calipers and bleeding the brakes.

Before you start, check NHTSA for open recalls on your VIN. NHTSA lists no brake-system recalls for the I35; its I35 recalls cover passenger air bag inflators and a crankshaft and camshaft position sensor issue, which are still worth having a dealer handle.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the 2002-2004 Infiniti I35 have rear drum brakes?

No. Every I35 has disc brakes at all four wheels. The parking brake is built into the rear calipers instead of using drum shoes.

Why will the rear caliper piston not push back on my I35?

Because the rear caliper contains the parking brake mechanism, its piston generally has to be rotated back in with a caliper wind-back tool rather than pressed straight. Forcing it can damage the internal adjuster.

Should I replace rotors every time I replace pads?

Not always, but usually on a car this age. If the rotors are below the minimum thickness stamped on them, grooved, or causing pulsation, replace them. New pads on worn rotors often squeal or vibrate.

Which wears out first, front or rear brakes?

The front brakes, on almost every I35. The front axle carries most of the braking load on this front-wheel-drive sedan.

My ABS light came on after a brake job. What happened?

Most often a wheel-speed sensor wire was stretched, pinched or unplugged while the caliper or rotor was off. Inspect the sensor and its harness at the wheel you worked on.

Are there brake recalls on the Infiniti I35?

NHTSA lists no brake-related recalls for the I35. Its listed recalls involve passenger air bag inflators and a crank and cam position sensor. Check your VIN at nhtsa.gov for open campaigns.

Sources

1. Auto123: 2002 Infiniti I35 review - EBD, Brake Assist, traction control and VDC; 260 hp V6 with four-speed automatic
2. CarSpecs: 2002 Infiniti I35 specifications - 3.5L V6, front-wheel drive, 4-wheel ABS, front and rear disc brakes, no rear drums
3. Infiniti Parts Deal: 2002 I35 front brake diagram - front caliper, pad kit, pad hardware kit, seal kit and slide pin parts
4. Infiniti Parts Deal: 2002 I35 rear brake diagram - rear caliper with parking brake lever and adjusting cams, rear pad kit
5. NHTSA recalls: Infiniti I35 - I35 recalls cover air bag inflators and engine position sensors; none brake-related
6. Power Stop: brake pad options - Z17 ceramic stock replacement with hardware; Z23 carbon-fiber ceramic fade resistance